My mother emigrated to the United States from Cuba back in 1953, when she was just 17. Four years later, she returned to Havana as a young married woman with an infant daughter (ME).
The revolution had begun. My mom never returned. She never saw her father again - he passed away in 1966.
I have heard my mom's tales of growing up in Havana all my life -- the pristine beaches, the swanky hotels and night clubs, the poverty in the cities. And I've always known that we still have family living there.
There was a period during the Carter administration when it looked as if relations with the Cuban government would thaw enough to allow Americans to travel there, and my dad looked into arranging for the family to visit. But when we learned that the Cubans (who apparently did not recognize my mom's naturalized US citizenship) would not allow us to all stay together in the same hotel, my dad abandoned that plan. Another 30 years passed before it became possible for Cuban-Americans to legally visit family on the island again.
Since then our family has grown: My folks have two sons-in-law and four grandchildren, so when my dad decided to give Cuba a second shot, he sprung for tickets for my niece (who just graduated from college) and nephew (who will be doing so himself...some day). My sister and brother-in-law decided to tag along with their youngest. It promised to be the trip of a lifetime.
And then there was our family. Thanks to the never-ending home renovation, we concluded that we just couldn't swing it right now.
So I had to live vicariously through emails from my sister and her husband during their visit. They have given me permission to publish some excerpts here:
December 28, 2009:
We have arrived in Havana, and are just getting started on our first day here (except for Carly and Alex, who arrived here a few days ago).
Last night we went to a restaurant that Linda's cousin Jose knew of and it was excellent with fried platains and the whole works, including our first mojitos, which weren't as sweet but stronger than what we have. yum yum.
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There are plenty of old cars that look like the interiors have been well maintained, but they could all use a paint job. palm trees everywhere of course. Today we are going into (Habana Vieja) Old Havana as soon as the relatives get down here. The others seem to be on Cuban time, but we are still on American time. we are ready to go!
We have a view of the ocean from our hotel room. The hotel is very nice and our short trip so far is fun and exciting.
December 30, 2009
We've had two very busy days here. Monday we went into Old Havana, which was everything you've heard and read about. Colonial style buildings, cobblestone narrow streets, lots of people, beautiful parks, monuments, etc., and of course music (more Caribbean than salsa) and mojitos. We also went to the place where mojitos were invented named La Bodeguita del Medio, which reminded us of Hussons in Encinada.
Yesterday we took a long bus ride into Cienfuegos to meet family and see the city. Lunch was at a paladar, which is a restaurant out of a person's home. It was on a bay and the fish was very fresh obviously. Lots of banana chips, rice and beans of course. Seeing the countryside was worth the trip.
We've had your mom's childhood friend and a Cuban cousin with us the whole time. Villi, the cousin, even took the whole week off to be with us. They, and cousin Jose from Panama who is with us, have been a great help as well as a lot of fun.
Alex is enjoying the cigars with your dad, as well as the drinking he can do here legally. Carly is enjoying the mojitos and is taking a bazillion pictures. Maddy is picking up the Spanish pretty well and is joining Carly with the picture taking.
Thank you, Donna, for your camera!
Hasta luego,
Mark, Linda, Carly, Alex, and Maddy
December 31, 2009
Hola and Feliz Ano Nuevo to all...
A bit late on this report, and getting ready to celebrate the New Year her, but here's some quick bits.
Wednesday was spent seeing various attractions in and around Havana, with our extended family [10 in the group!]. We drove to the Marina Hemingway [yes, there are yachts visiting here - no photos of any US ones, of course], and then to the Plaza de la Revolucion. There is a large memorial to Jose Marti there, a large image of Che Guevarra on the Interior Ministry building, and other sites [eg, library]. Also saw the University of Havana, and the Havana Libre [former Hilton], on our way to the Castillo de Morro and Cabana. This last site is across the bay from Old Havana and is two large fortresses with cannons, huge walls, moats, etc built by Spain - very impressive. Did some shopping later and visited a cousin's daughter for cerveza in an outdoor plaza...
The evening included a late dinner and a visit to the nightclub at Havana Libre - on the 25th floor with beautiful views and a ceiling that opens to the night air and sky. The band was excellent - salsa and carribean - but no one was dancing! All tourists we guessed, and Mark and Linda were not brave enough to go it alone... We'll have to find a more local club...
Tonight, we're off to cousin Villi's to spend New Year's Eve with family.
Hasta luego.
Mark, Linda, Carly, Alex, Maddy
The family returned home last week and I've yet to get the full report - or see the photos my sister took. Until then, feel free to check out her Flickr stream (which features over 1,000 taken by my niece - where I stole the ones in this post).
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